A Safe Christmas for Kitty

Christmas and all the decorations and trimmings that go with it are more than appealing to cats, especially kittens and young adults. So with all that fun and frolic come the accompanying hazards, but a little forethought can make all the difference to keeping it a safe time for your cat or kitten.

The tree itself is a magnet - something to climb and hide out in and under, maybe even chew on some of the needles (if it is a real tree) or synthetic lookalikes if it is an artificial tree. Either way, your cat cannot help itself but to be drawn to this fun addition to the home. Putting a tree out of reach of the cat is not really an option, but weighing the base down can help stop it from toppling over when your kitten finds itself at the top of the tree. Some people do, however, go to great lengths to suspend the tree from the ceiling or surround it by a barrier such as portable fencing, having a very non traditional tree.

If, from past experience, you know that your cat likes to sample the needles, it might be better to keep the cat out the room entirely, use an alternative “tree” until he or she has outgrown the habit or get really creative with an alternative solution.

Decorations are also very appealing to cats, so try putting the breakable ones a bit higher up so that even if your cat does bat them, they won’t shatter when they high the ground, and put unbreakables on the bottom section of the tree. Make sure that the cords of the lights are out of sight wherever possible. Gift wrappings and ribbons can be hazardous too - chewed up ribbon in your cat’s gut is not a good thing.

If you are going out, it might be a good idea to make sure that kitty does not have access to the tree in your absence. The rule of thumb at Christmas - make sure that your cat does not have unsupervised time with the tree, especially if it is a kitten or young adult. A bit of vigilance can save your cat’s life.

Changing Diet in an Older Cat

Anyone who has ever had a cat knows that they can be very set in their ways and resistant to change. My nearly eighteen-year old cat never showed any interest in raw food for the first seventeen years of her life. She pointedly turned her nose up at it and walked away. It did not matter what kind of raw food it was. If it did not come out of a can, a bag or an ice cream container, it was not worth eating.

Well the new seventeen year old decided that it was time for a change. I was preparing fish for myself and put a few offcuts in a dish for her and they were gobbled up with delight as she waited for more. I knew I must have imagined this, so I gave her a couple more pieces. What a hit.

The next time I was preparing fish, I did the same thing and again, it was a hit. Now, as soon as I start to prepare the fish, my 4-legged companion comes to investigate. She has only had it once as an entire meal, and I’m sure would again quite happily, but for now, it’s just a spoonful of chopped fish in a dish as a special treat.

The point of this post is that your elderly cat is not too old to try something new, and just as our tastes can change, so can those of your cat. I don’t cook with meat, so I haven’t had an opportunity to try her with raw chicken, but I would be most interested to see how she responded.

If you wanted to change your cat over to raw food, it is something that needs to be done gradually, as the cat’s digestive system will need to adjust to the different food, so adding a little bit more of raw each day and a little less of canned or bagged food would be recommended. Then maybe canned tuna becomes the special treat. Obviously, feeding your cat an all raw diet is more expensive (at least it certainly is where I live), but don’t feel that just because your cat wasn’t interested a few years ago that he or she would not be ready for a change.

Cat Not Talking To You?

Anyone who knows cats knows that this is very real, but for someone who is new to cats or doesn’t know them at all, this may come as a surprise. You know you’ve told someone that you went home and your cat wasn’t speaking to you and they thought you were nuts, but this is real, and if you are new to cats or have just got a new feline in the household, it is in your best interests to figure out what you did wrong and fix it sooner rather than later.

You go and sit on the sofa and your cat walks right up to you, turns around and settles a few feet away from you with it’s back very deliberately turned to you. What did you do wrong? When you got home did you immediately go and speak to your cat, praise him or her for being such a good kitty and thank them for looking after things in your absence? Well you better go and beg for forgiveness immediately, apologise profusely and praise kitty for being the best that there is.

Have you not paid much attention to kitty today? Well you know what to do, get in there and shower kitty with love and attention. Brush kitty, play with kitty, let him or her know that they are a very important part of the household, and always remember to apologise and beg forgiveness for your faux pas.

Kitty will usually come around quite quickly once you have made amends, but don’t make it a habit or it could get out of hand. Kitty has feelings too!

Sudden Behavioural Changes

Sudden behavioural changes in your cat are, more than likely, the result of a medical problem. A bladder infection can have your cat peeing all over the house. Erratic behaviour can be the result of something going on in the brain. If your cat is becoming very lethargic and just wants to sleep, this can be a symptom of a thyroid problem. So if you notice any sudden behavioural changes in your cat, your first course of action is a visit to the vet. Depending on the problem, a course of medication and your cat could be back to normal in a matter of days.

Unfortunately, if your cat has a brain tumor, the outlook is not quite so positive, and erratic behaviour will get worse until you decide it is time for euthanasia. This is the situation we had with one of our cats, now deceased. When his quality of life disappeared, we made that very difficult decision.

Sudden behavioural changes can also occur if there is a change in the household - someone moves in or out, there is a death in the household (human or animal), a traumatic event in the household. Cats are very sensitive to the energy of others and can respond negatively to a change in the household. Depending on the situation, the remedy can take some time.

The onus is on you the human, to be aware of changes in your cat’s behaviour and take the necessary steps to nip the problem in the bud so that life can get back to that happy balanced household.

Two Weeks After Trauma

It has taken about twelve days for my cat to feel semi-comfortable upstairs, so much so that she has started lying on my desk again. It took the cat longer to move on than it took me after a burglar came into our home.  The point here is that cats (any animal) can be upset when something unexpected happens in the household, good or bad, and that it takes them time to get over it too.

Animals live in the present whereas we humans think about things that have happened throughout our entire lives and even picture the future, we live in the past, present and future. We can rationalise things to help us move on after something has happened. Our animals can’t do that. It helps them tremendously if we explain why something happened, or how it came about, what it means, what difference it may make to the animal and in the household generally. This is what really helps our animal companions get over that unexpected event. Help them understand too by talking to them, often.

One Week After Trauma

Last week I mentioned about my cat being traumatized because of a burglary in our home last Saturday night. I thought it would be useful to provide an update on her status one week after the event to emphasise that just one event can upset a cat in a big way.

She used to love going upstairs to lie on my desk at the window or on the landing at the top of the stairs where she could get the cross-breeze coming from both sides of the house. Now she is very hesitant to go upstairs at all, particularly at night, and if she does, she is back down very quickly.

She will sit near the bottom of the stairs just looking up as if she’s maybe not sure if to go up or if there might be someone up there who doesn’t belong. Yesterday I went upstairs while she was napping and she woke up and heard me upstairs so she hid round the corner and was just peeping around a piece of furniture to see who was coming down the stairs.

And yes, she did pee outside the litterbox - a very typical indication of something not right in a cat’s world. Thankfully, that only happened once. I have now had several chats with her, explaining what happened and trying to reassure her that there is no one else in the house, and that we are all safe. I think that has helped a lot. There are still, of course, different smells in the house as, not only was there a burglar, but also four police officers who came to investigate afterwards.

It has been an interesting week, that’s for sure but I do think she is settling down - slowly.

Talk to Your Cat!

I cannot stress enough how important it is to talk to your cat and to let them know what is going on. You’re going to working in the morning, so tell your cat you’re leaving for work, you’ll be back around a certain time and, give your cat a job to do, even if it’s just to have a couple of naps while you’re out. You know your cat, what are they good at? Keeping order amongst the animals or keeping the bed warm for you until you come home? Whatever it is, your cat would like to serve a purpose in your home, and if it’s just to keep you company, that can be the “job” assigned. 

Do think about the job you are giving your cat though. I used to ask mine to “look after things” while I was out or overnight while I was asleep. Unfortunately, I had a recently burglary while I was at home watching TV downstairs and someone broke in through an upstairs window. My cat was upstairs at the time and I’m quite sure she saw the person. However, for the rest of the night and the next day she was very depressed, and I had to explain to her that it was okay and that she was not responsible. I think she felt badly because she didn’t “keep an eye on things”. Fortunately, she brightened up significantly and is now her old self again after I explained things. So do be careful on the job you assign, make it something realistic.

If you’re going to be away and someone is coming to look after the cat, please explain what is going on before the person arrives and again when you’re leaving. If someone is coming to stay, tell the cat. If you’re moving house, getting new furniture, having a baby, getting another cat, repainting a room, anything at all, please tell your cat.

All that I have mentioned above should be applied to any animal in your houehold. Keep them informed, please. You don’t have to take my word for it, there is some much information out there that you can do your own research on the subject too. Happy pet = happy household!

Kitty Language

Cats tend to communicate with each other using body language more than vocalisation, so it’s very imporant to learn how to read your cat. Learn to recognise that tail twitch that means they’re getting a little agitated and it’s time to stop rubbing their belly or scratching their ears.

Meowing is largely for communication with us humans, and we quickly learn what each one means if we listen to the different inflections and volumes. You know exactly when your kitty is hungry or wants you to open the door so’s they can come inside.

Learning body language is equally, if not more, important as many a painful scratch can be avoided. It’s also useful if you have a multi-cat household as you can learn to recognise when a disagreement might be in the offing between two cats and evasive action can be taken.

It is worth your while to pay attention and learn when your cat is afraid, apprehensive, protective, agitated, wanting to pick a fight or just ready for a cuddle.

Cats & Change

As a rule, cats do not like change. Whether it be re-arrangement of the living room furniture, a move to a new house, the addition or removal of a pet, or even a different human in the house, some cats just don’t like it and take a long time to adapt to the new scenario.

A change in the household can result in a change of behaviour in your cat. It may stop using the litterbox, it might start spraying (yes, even neutered cats, male and female, can spray), it may disappear for long periods of time or just go into hiding in a closet, any number of unwanted and unexpected behaviours may occur when a change in the household is thrust upon your cat.

In the case of a death within the household, there is frequently little or no warning whether human or animal, but it can be just as devastating for your cat as it can be for you, so be aware of the fact that your cat may be grieving. There are homeopathic remedies that can be used quite successfully to help a cat overcome the loss of a loved one, but giving your cat lots of love and respect is also very helpful.

Your cat may not appreciate your longer working hours, so having someone visit during the day or popping home for a brief visit at lunch time can help your cat settle in to the new routine. Talking to your cat, explaining what is happening (ideally ahead of time) and lots of patience can go a long way to a smooth transition. 

Getting upset at your cat will only make matters worse. The unwanted behaviour is your cat’s way of telling you that it’s not happy with the new arrangement and, with patience, most cats will settle in, but for some it is just too much to bear. So as with most things involving cats, patience, patience, patience, but don’t forget communication.

Kitten Play

You’ve got your kitten and it’s just adorable, so cute with those big ears and huge eyes. How can you possibly resist? Well, you can’t, but getting play sessions right from the start will save lots of fingers and toes down the line.

At 2 or 3 months of age, a kitten chewing on your fingers and toes is just plain cute. It’s not particularly painful, just adorable, but when kitty’s baby teeth are replaced by adult teeth, that story changes. It’s downright painful. So the rule of thumb is never allow your kitten to play with your fingers and toes, always with a safe toy.

Kittens generally will play with just about anything, but again, choose your toys carefully. Whatever you allow your kitten to play with sets it up for being an okay toy as the kitten matures and becomes an adult cat. Think about it.

There are so many cat and kitten toys available for purchase, you can make toys and exciting places for your kitten to keep itself entertained safely. A cardboard box is always a hit, with or without holes cut into it. Anything dangling is going to be very appealing to your kitten, so make sure that electrical cables are out of the way. If you don’t want your curtains shredded, tuck them out of the way for the first few months too.

Remember that lots of popular house plants are poisonous to cats, and your little kitten, just like a child, will chew on everything, especially when it’s teething, so be proactive and keep your kitten safe, happy and healthy from the moment you welcome that little darling into your home and your life.

What to Expect from Your Senior Cat

Your vet would probably define a senior cat as one over 10 years of age, but nowadays cats easily live into their late teens and even into their twenties, particularly indoor cats, so chances are that if you have a cat, you will see it become an adult, a senior and even a geriatric cat.

Like humans, as a cat ages, it will become less active and sleep more, but this does not mean that your cat must be confined to the floor and low pieces of furniture. It is very easy to put in little ramps here and there, or move a low table next to a higher chair so that the cat has access to places that have been their favourites for many years.

As your cat ages, regulation of it’s body temperature becomes less efficient. You wonder how your cat can lie in the sun for hours on end, or in front of the fire, even with that thick coat of fur, well it just wants to be warm and cozy, so leaving your cat outside in cold or wet weather is downright cruel and unkind. If you know bad weather is coming, it might be a good idea to keep the cat indoors until it has passed - this applies to any cat but particularly a senior.

Senior cats can develop dementia which, as one would expect, can include unusual and slightly bizarre behaviours. They may have trouble finding their litterbox, food and water bowls, or just wake up and not know where they are, or where the humans of the household are. Blood curdling yowling becomes a factor at any time of the day or night. Once your vet has diagnosed dementia, keep an eye out for these behaviours. They are just part of it and making exceptions for the odd miss at the litterbox is part of the package. You can both still have wonderful and meaningful times together as your cat ages.

Food can become an issue if your cat has tooth problems, perhaps even loses a few, making it difficult to eat hard foods. It’s very easy to create your own cat food too once you have a blender and the time to prepare it, ideally fresh each day, but there are so many canned options available that finding something suitable should not be a problem. I am currently hand feeding a cat thinly sliced (like matchsticks) pieces of raw chicken one piece at a time as it is all that she can manage. She still eats a lot, but needs extra time and attention in preparation and consumption. She’s happy, I’m happy.

Older cats also tend to drink less water, so making sure that there is always lots of fresh water around, and perhaps giving some wet food as well, are simple ways to help with this issue. This is when kidney problems may start to develop too, so making sure there is plenty of water available is really important.

Your senior cat may not be too interested in playing, or just in short bursts, but they will still crave your touch and attention, and many senior cats become much more loving towards their human, enjoying being in close proximity. This is when some people think of getting a kitten into the household “to brighten up their sleepy senior”. Know your cat very well before you do this. I would not do that to my senior as I know she would not appreciate it, and it would just become very distressful for her, so know your cat before you make this undertaking. It is not fair to either your senior or the kitten to go through the introductions, etc and then have to rehome the kitten at a later date because your older cat is not happy.

Enjoy these years, they are very special!

Moving House With Your Cat

Many people stress when they have to move house with their pets, especially cats as they are notorious for trying to get back to the old residence, so a little advice can go a long way.

Ideally, you need to keep your cat indoors for at least six weeks. To begin with, choose a room in the house that the cat can stay in with all toys, food, water, litterbox and bed, and that would become the cat’s safe place. Before the move, place a piece of clothing or cloth in the room that has both your scent and that of your cat on it, and just leave it in the room. If you can lay your hands on a cat pheromone such as Feliway, spray that around the room the day before the move, or at least prior to introducing the cat to the room. Humans cannot smell the pheromones and it won’t mark walls or fabrics, but it will be very calming for your cat.

Your cat should stay in this room for at least a week, possibly longer depending on the cat. Pay special attention to how well he/she is settling in. Obviously, you will need to visit him or her regularly in the room for play time, etc - the cat is not in prison. When you decide that the cat is settled enough in that room, you can open up another section of the house to him/her, just spraying a bit of pheromone to the new area - this lasts for about a month so no need to re-do the safe room.

If you have a large house, you should let the cat explore a bit at a time, and when he or she has become comfortable with the new area, another room can be made available, until the whole house has been explored and the cat seems calm and comfortable in the new surroundings. Moving into something smaller is, of course, a much easier transition for the cat.

When you let your cat outside for the first time, ideally you should be present just to keep an eye on things. Make sure that the cat is fed when it comes back inside at night around the same time - this will help it learn that this is home and where food is provided. This would also be the ideal opportunity to turn your cat into an indoor cat as it would have been living inside for several weeks already.

Generally speaking, with a bit of forethought and planning, moving house can be a smooth exercise for your cat.

Does Neutering/Spaying Affect Cat Behaviour?

This is one of the easiest questions to answer - emphatically, yes, in a positive way. Many people are still uncomfortable or undecided when it comes to neutering and spaying of their cat, but it’s a no brainer.

In the case of a female cat, once she has access to the outdoors, chances are that every time she comes into heat, she will be found by a tom cat and become pregnant. She does not need that drain on her body, nor do you, her human, need the headache of trying to find homes for numerous kittens in a society where shelters are already overflowing with unwanted cats and kittens.

Believe it or not, when a female cat (queen or moggy) comes into season, she will be advertising the fact to all who care to listen. Not only will her scent spread far and wide, but she will become very noisy with constant yowling in her attempt to attract a mate, wandering and even marking with her urine as it will be rich in pheromones. Even if the cat lives indoors, her behaviour will change during her heat.

It is healthier for the female cat to be spayed as the chances of her getting ovarian or uterine cancers are reduced significantly, she will be safer as she will be less inclined to go wandering and come to grief with a car, another cat, wild animal or any one of the numerous hazards that are out there.

The procedure of spaying is a small operation performed under aneasthesia by a vet who will remove the uterus and the ovaries. The operation is quick, relatively cheap and recovery time is short. Ideally, it should be done before she has her first heat which could be any time around four months of age, but it is safe to perform the operation on adult cats too, so don’t delay, book yours today.

For male cats, it is an even easier, quicker and cheaper operation, also performed by a vet. The testicles are removed in an operations that takes about five minutes, and recovery time is therefore very short.

The behaviour changes in the male cat are also significant. It takes a few weeks for testosterone levels to lower to their new levels, so changes are steady and can be noticed almost immediately. The cat’s need to wander and mark their territory (whether indoors or outdoors) will decrease significantly. There will be no chance of the cat getting testicular cancer, and he will be more inclined to stay close to home, which means a safer environment for him. Most neutered males also become more loving and wanting of their human’s company. There will be no unwanted kittens produced by the neutered male, whether yours or those of your neighbour. 

So neutering/spaying your cat is the responsible thing to do and your cat will thank you for it.

Cats & Aggression

Cats are not born aggressive. Experiences in their lives may generate aggression, and once these experiences continue to occur, the aggression tends to get worse as the cat gets older. Unless there is some kind of brain tumor or some such medical issue affecting the cat’s behaviour, aggression is usually in response to an outside stimulus.

A cat may be aggressive out of fear or due to pain. Cats are usually very stoic and mask any pain or discomfort that they are feeling, but some may lash out. With the removal of the pain, the aggression should disappear. Similarly, a cat that displays aggression because it feels threatened is relatively normal. The need to lash out and protect oneself is a perfectly normal response throughout the animal kingdom.

A mother cat may become aggressive when someone or something gets too close to her nest, and this may include her beloved human. Though all mother cats do not display aggression, this too is normal behaviour, and once her hormones return to normal levels, the aggression should disappear. However, there are instances where cat aggression becomes a problem. It may be aggression shown to another cat or animal in the household, or it may be aggression shown towards it’s human. 

Just like humans, every cat does not necessarily like every cat or animal that it must share a home with, and though outright aggression does not usually occur except for the odd occasion, it does happen. Most often, a simple hiss and a swat are enough, but some cats just don’t like each other. If it is a big problem such that the cats get injured and require a trip to the vet, this type of cat on cat aggression is not usually going to be resolved, and re-homing of one or other cat is the best solution. However, these instances are rare. Most cats will tolerate even those in the household that they don’t like once a safe distance is maintained by all. Getting too close can just provoke the cat into an aggressive act, and this will just make the situation worse.

All too often, as a kitten, humans in the cat’s life may play roughly, thinking how cute it is that the kitten attacks a finger or a toe, because at that age it’s not a problem and does not hurt, but as the cat becomes an adult, this rough play becomes distinctly unpleasant for the human and can get totally out of hand. Without realising it, the human has encouraged this type of behaviour, so the poor cat doesn’t know what is wrong and doesn’t understand why it is no longer acceptable. Therefore, a rule of thumb, is to play with your kitten (and adult cat) using toys that keep your own hands (and toes) at a distance. There are numerous such toys available on the market, plus it’s very easy to make something with an old rag and some catnip for “flavour”.

More specific instances of cat aggression will be dealt with in a later posting and in more detail. The above are generalisations that are fairly common occurrences.

And Even More Litterbox Tips for a Happy Cat

Since litterbox issues are one of the most frequent reasons that cat owners request euthanasia or rehoming of their cat, I cannot offer enough tips on how to remedy this problem. The cat cannot fix it’s litterbox issues without the human’s input. You have chosen to have a cat, so it is your responsibility to figure out the problems and to fix them. If a cat does not like the location of it’s litterbox, it cannot pick it up and move it to a more suitable location. That is the responsibility of the human.

If a cat has been declawed, what is left of it’s toes may be very tender, and therefore the type of litter can be very important. Some litters will just make it too painful for the cat to scratch and do it’s toileting, making the carpet look very attractive. Nowadays there are numerous different types of litter with variations in texture and feel, not to mention scent. Depth of litter is also important for most cats - about two inches is just right for my cat. All of these things may be very important to your cat.

The litterbox itself can be an important factor to some cats. Is it too small or is it too big? Perhaps a covered litterbox would be preferable, adding to the privacy of the cat, or maybe no cover. And, as I’ve mentioned before, some cats won’t share a litterbox with another cat, and some require one litterbox for pee and one for poo. And I cannot stress enough how important the location of the litterbox is to the cat.

With all of these variables, it’s easy to see how long it can take to get the litterbox placement to the cat’s liking, and all of this is after the vet has given clearance of the cat’s health - no amount of litterbox tweaking will help if the cat has a urinary tract infection.

Do not despair, with patience, most litterbox issues can be solved humanely, but it may take some time.

The Bully Cat

Unfortunately, bullies are not just human-kind, they are a fairly regular presence in the feline world too. Research has shown that several factors may result in a bully cat, one of which is the kitten being removed from it’s mother at too young an age…for whatever reason. However, none of the research seems to be particularly conclusive and there are probably several contributing factors in the early years of the animal.

The bully cat tends to pick on just one cat in the household. Learning the signs of when he (or she) is getting ready to pounce on the victim is key to diverting the energy elsewhere. However, there really is no reliable “fix” to the bully cat. 

In the case of a male bully cat, neutering will offer some help, and diversion will offer some help. Diversion tactics offered a millisecond too late will have little to no effect, so observing and learning the signs are very important, and then presenting the diversion just before the bullying begins. Diversion can be play, a treat, attention, anything fun and positive that appeals to the cat.

In my personal experience of bully cats, they have all been male and the victims have always been female, however I am sure that female bully cats exist too. On of my own cats was a bully cat, and he bullied our female for his entire life (about fifteen years), though once he passed about age ten, incidents became infrequent to not at all.

The bullying situation is very much about observation and figuring out when to intervene and how to intervene without making the situation worse, as “once a bully always a bully” applies in the cat kingdom.

Bringing Home Your New Kitten

What an exciting time, you’ve chosen your kitten, you’ve prepared your home with toys, a bed, litterbox and food. It’s time to collect the little darling and bring her (or him) home. Now what?

It’s a good idea to arrange for the new resident to arrive at a time when you will be around for at least a few days to help her settle in, and if you live in a multi-room home, maybe confine her to just one or two rooms to start with. She’s just a baby and still has lots to learn about her new accommodations and life in general.

Make sure she can easily find her litterbox, and keep an eye on her so that after she’s had a meal you can encourage her to go in the right direction. It’s better to let her walk to the litterbox as she will learn the route through repetition and scent. Never mind how clean you think the litterbox is, her nose is way more sensitive than yours, so she will be able to smell her way there.

Play is an important part of settling baby into her new surroundings. She’ll want to do a bit of exploring on her own, but a little interactive play with her new human is important and general supervision. And she will, of course, do lots of eating and sleeping as she’s still young.

Did you remember to kitten-proof your home? Electrical wires are very attractive as toys, plants, anything than dangles, tiny holes and crevices are all things that your new kitten will want to investigate, but that may be very dangerous for her.

Once she is a bit older and has her litterbox habits organised, you may want to gradually let her in to other parts of the house…if you live in a smaller home, she can probably have free reign from day 1. A two-storey home should have a litterbox on each floor, especially in the early days when she may not make it in time to one all the way down in the basement.

Think like a kitten so that you can be a step ahead of her as she settles in to her new home, especially when she will be left alone and will no doubt get up to mischief (in your mind), but just play in her mind. Cats are cats and will do what cats do. Together you will get to know and appreciate each other.

To Touch or Not To Touch…The Cat

Everyone wants to stroke their cat, but any cat lover knows that some cats will only tolerate a small amount of touching. Overstaying your welcome on your cat’s belly or ears or anywhere else can be hazardous to your health.

Some cats are actually ticklish on their belly and won’t tolerate touching their at all, and claws and teeth can come out very quickly. Learn to watch for signs of irritation, watch that tail and as soon as it starts to twitch remove your hand.

It is possible, with time and patience, to increase the length of time that you can stroke your cat, but always always always, as soon as you see the tail twitch or other sign of irritation, stop. Sometimes just resting your unmoving hand or finger is adequate for the cat. If you overdo it just once, aside from having a scratched hand, you will have to start the whole procedure over.

Most cats love a rub behind the ears, on top of the head, under the chin or on the back of the neck, but they are always in control of how much, how long and where, because if you overstay your welcome, you will be the one to suffer the consequences. Thankfully, most cats love to be stroked gently on a regular basis, and they will come to you when the time is right, especially those that are a bit ticklish, and you need to grab that moment when it comes.

I have always brushed my cats regularly, from head to tail and under the belly, however, I did have one cat who didn’t like belly brushing or touching at all, and after about ten years, I was able to use the comb for a minute or two, but as soon as that tail twitched, I was done. It doesn’t sound like much, but a minute or two of combing or brushing on the belly does actually make a difference, but yes, it took years.

As always with anything cat related, patience is an essential part of the process. 

More Litterbox Tips for a Happy Cat

Believe it or not, the location of your cat’s litterbox is very important. Cats are very private animals and would prefer to do their toileting in a quiet and secluded location. If you do not provide that for them, the cat will most likely just find somewhere more to it’s liking and probably not to yours.

A high traffic area is a bad place to put your cat’s litterbox. Somewhere that the family dog or children can interrupt toileting will not end well. Dogs are notorious for eating cat poop, so not only is it good for the cat to have it’s litterbox out of reach, but also good for the dog. And you definitely wouldn’t want your toddler copying the dog’s behaviour by trying to eat poop or just playing in the litterbox, so it really is better for everyone.

The litterbox should not be in close proximity to the cat’s food, water or bed. You don’t want to eat and sleep next to the toilet, neither does your cat. If your cat is not using it’s litterbox, pay attention to the chosen location for toileting. It might not be ideal for you, but if it keeps the cat happy, then I’m sure you’d be happy that poop is actually being deposited into the litterbox rather than in a corner of the living room for you to clean up.

Litterboxes do not have to be ugly, smelly and messy things either. There are many different “houses” available into which your litterbox can be placed, so that it looks like a piece of furniture or a cute little cottage or some other fun design. Get creative, and once it’s scooped regularly, smell shouldn’t be an issue.

My cat’s litterbox is in a small storage room with a cat flap in the bottom of the door, so that the cat can get access at any time. It’s dark, with the only light coming through the cat flap, it’s quiet as there is very little traffic. If I had a dog or a small child around, they would not be able to gain access to the room either, so it works very well.

So, for the cat’s litterbox, it’s all about location, location, location!

Grooming Your Cat

Most cats love to be groomed, and it’s great for bonding between human and cat. Aside from the health benefits for the cat (and human), grooming can be very effective as a means of healing for a grieving or depressed cat.

Ideally, grooming should start in kittenhood, but once you start slowly and gently, most adult cats will grow to love the experience and the time with their human. I tend to both brush and comb my cat, but depending on your cat’s coat and personal preferences, one or the other is adequate.

Brushing and combing removes loose hair that will otherwise end up in your house or in your cat’s stomach, so lessening the quantity of ingested hair is an added benefit to your cat’s general health. Long haired cats need regular grooming anyhow, including regular bathing, but even short haired cats benefit from this exercise.

If you are grooming an adult cat for the first time, be very aware of your cat’s warning signs as to when he or she has had enough. Start with gentle strokes on the head and neck, places that a cat usually likes to be stroked, and going in the direction that the hair grows. Your cat may only tolerate a minute or two, but that’s okay. Immediately you see warning signs of irritability, stop, you can have another short session later in the day. Gradually, your cat will start to enjoy the brushing/combing and will tolerate extended periods on a regular basis. I groom my short haired cat for a good fifteen minutes two or three times a week, and she loves it.

If your cat is grieving over the loss of a companion, grooming can be a good way to help him or her come to terms with the loss and to move on. Similarly, a depressed or unhappy cat can benefit immensely from regular grooming from their human. That interaction is so important and is not only important for the cat’s physical and mental health, but there are similar benefits for the human too. 

Choose your tools carefully as you don’t want to pull the cat’s hair and cause discomfort in any way. I find that a simple flea comb and a silicone brush are ideal for my short haired cat. Long haired cats will need tools specifically for longer coats, but everything is easily obtainable online or from your local pet store.

Play as Therapy for Cats & Kittens

Kittens start to play from the time they can walk or stumble around on wobbly legs. They learn a lot from playing as they hone their motor skills in preparation for hunting and climbing. Chasing siblings around and attacking your toes are all practice for hunting.

Play has other important benefits, and not just for kittens. As a cat ages, it will play less, and senior cats may not play at all - this is a normal part of aging. However, a cat that is unhappy, depressed or just plain bored, may benefit from regular play sessions.

There are so many toys available for both interactive and alone play, that there should be no problem in finding something suitable. In fact, you can even make toys using old bits of cloth, feathers and other bits and pieces knocking around the house. Your cat will probably respond better to some toys than others, but that’s a case of you figuring out what your cat likes. A bit of cat nip hidden somewhere on the toy is a good idea, or even making a tea with it and soaking a bit of cloth in the tea.

Offer your adult cat some play time occasionally is not only good exercise, but also great bonding time for you and your cat. If your cat is bored and gets up to mischief when you are not around, regular play sessions can help to alleviate this boredom, as well as tire your cat out so that it will be less inclined to destroy the house in your absence.

Playing is a good way of interacting with your cat if it is grieving after having lost it’s companion cat. If you have moved to a new location or have a new job/working hours, playing can help your cat settle in to the new routine. Play can also be used when introducing a new cat or other pet to the household. Even a senior cat can be encouraged to play though the session will probably only last a couple minutes. 

Remember that a happy cat = a happy household.